The Guardian in Praise of Corks.

The Guardian praises corks today.

But patience is now running out in Portugal, the world’s main cork
producer. Increasing competition from modern alternatives like plastic
tops, synthetic stoppers and, dare one mention it, screwcaps is hurting
the Portuguese economy as well as removing a little magic from wine
drinking as surely as a corkscrew does with a cork.

One thing that should be added (as Simon Barnes of The Times has been saying for years). The cork industry supports one of Europe’s prime ecosystems for bird life. The trees do not grow in thick forests, rather scatter themselves across the Alentejo (that part of Portugal between Lisbon and the Algarve). The basic farming method is to cut some small part of the bark each year, taking perhaps  20 years to completely strip it, by which time of course there is regrowth and the cycle starts again. So it is harvesting, not cutting down the tree.

The land in between the trees is usually grazed by sheep and goats and every 8 th year is ploughed and a wheat crop planted, before it returns to 7 years of pasture.

This whole cycle provides food and shelter to millions upon millions of migratory birds each year. If the cash income from the cork were to disappear the trees would come down and the fields become the monocrops similar to much of northern Europe.

So, remember, each time you drink from a bottle with a plastic or screw top you are damaging this environment.

Will no one think of the birds?

14 responses

  1. Um, maybe I’m missing something, but isn’t “increasing competition from modern alternatives like plastic tops, synthetic stoppers and, dare one mention it, screwcaps” the free market at work? Doesn’t that rather seem to be working against the environment in this case? If I’m not missing something, what is your analysis of this as an environmentally concerned free marketeer? Thanks.
    Tim adds: A standard part of free market economics is that the participants are fully informed, is it not? So I am contributing to the information held by consumers by pointing this out? No one claims (or at least no one sensible) that all external effects are always contained within the current pricing mechanism.

  2. there is also a lot of flat out lies told by the screwcap industry. In particular, this idea that one in twenty bottles suffers from “cork taint”. I drink a hell of a lot of wine, and I would reckon I’ve had maybe half a dozen corked bottles in the last twenty years, all but two of them in the days when I used to drink grieviously cheap supermarket Bulgarian. It is also not true that screwcap closures don’t leave their own taste in the wine, if you ask me.

  3. Chris harper Avatar
    Chris harper

    I blame the Australians.
    They were the ones who invented plastic ‘corks’ for wine bottles and the cardboard wine cask.
    They screwed up their own country with rabbits and flies and cane toads, and now they are trying to screw up Europe as well.
    Bastards.

  4. Use synthetic, I say. That requires more hydrocarbon extraction. Screw the birds.

  5. Righty ho. Thanks for that. Curious to know what your views were.
    Tim adds: In the interests of completeness perhaps I should add that I think the environmental task ahead of us is to make sure that prices do indeed reflect the externalities.

  6. Yes, The Australians they are a funny bunch of tomatoes. I once had to escort a mid-level Soviet spy out of there in the Cold War. My Australian counterparts were most uncouth, obsessed with a television soap called ‘The Sullivans’, and always smoking high tar cigarettes in a laid back and relaxed manner which was not conducive to a matter of such National Security. Anyways I digress about these children.
    Tim Newman, I find your lack of respect to the environment disturbing. I use only the finest radioactive materials in poetical experiments. Hydrocarbon extraction has never been on my agenda.

  7. The Remittance Man Avatar
    The Remittance Man

    But hang on here. I seem to remember a few years ago (2 -5 years) reports going about that there would not being enough corks to go around. I can’t remember the details but it had something to do with the time it takes for cork oaks to mature (several decades)and the unexpected rise in the amount of wine drunk ver the past couple of decades.
    It appears that this shortfall has spurred the synthetics industry to produce an alternative and the wine producers to “educate” consumers that plastic corks and screw tops weren’t necessarily a sign of poor quality.
    Now it appears that the cork growers are a victims of circumstance again. Synthetic corks have been too successful, crowding out the limited supply of corks even more with better prices, quality, availability etc.
    I’m not sure what the answer is (a fight back by the real cork manufacturers seems to be the only free market solution) but I think this is a classic example of the power of the Law of Unintended Consequences.
    RM

  8. In Vino Tweet! Tweet! Tweet!

    You probably already think of screw-top and rubber-corked wine bottles as an abomination in their own right. But did you know that by using them more and more, bottlers are wiping out one of Portugal’s primary bird habitats? Our pal…

  9. In Vino Tweet! Tweet! Tweet!

    You probably already think of screw-top and rubber-corked wine bottles as an abomination in their own right. But did you know that by using them more and more, bottlers are wiping out one of Portugal’s primary bird habitats? Our pal…

  10. In Vino Tweet! Tweet! Tweet!

    You probably already think of screw-top and syntho-corked wine bottles as an abomination in their own right. But did you know that by using them more and more, bottlers are wiping out one of Portugal’s primary bird habitats? Our pal…

  11. I prefer wine bottled with natural cork, but I’ve had plenty of wine corked with synthetic corks that was good too.

  12. Do I hear the sound of vested interests trying to manipulate public opinion? The cork forests of the Alentejo are man-made. If they are phased out gradually, the birds will adjust. Moreover, it’s hard to see what else could be done with the dry land of the Alentejo, which is why the cork-producers also often raise pigs and goats. I suspect there’ll always be a small market for cork stoppers.

  13. anomdebus Avatar
    anomdebus

    Keep in mind that there are other uses for cork, floors especially. I also find whole cork boards to be vastly superior to the “cork shards” board.
    I don’t know what the real failure in wine corks is, but I would be rather angry if I spent some decent change and got vinegar.

  14. Peter D. Avatar
    Peter D.

    I’ve tasted far too many corked wines! I’ve been drinking, on average, three to four bottles a week now for about twenty years. And the cost of the wine makes no difference to whether the wine is corked. Screwcaps are the only way to go. Australian and NZ and now heading towards 100% screwcap for their fresh whites. Amen!
    Regarding environmental effects… what about the chemicals used to treat the cork? Don’t know…just asking?

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